I'm back! Sewing again, and blogging about it, that is

This past couple of weeks, I have taken on a new challenge - to make myself some shorts out of linen.

I have a pair of shorts I bought a long time ago that are a cotton/linen blend, and they are among my favorite to wear in the hot summer months. However, they're a bit small (literally, too short! LOL) and are starting to wear out anyway. I have other pairs of shorts that fit much more comfortably, but are made of heavy denim fabric, and truly look like "Mom jorts". Fine in some cases, but not my favorite every day.

So I decided to use some of the linen I bought for SCA garb to make some cool summer clothing. I have no patterns, no experience making modern pants with zippers, and only my existing clothing to use as a model. What I came up with just needs a couple of small tweaks, which I'll detail at the end.

I'm writing out the instructions that I want to use to repeat this process again, for future reference.

Cut List:

• 2 Fronts
• 2 Backs
• Front pocket(s) (0-2)
• Back pocket(2) (0-2)
• 1 zipper panel
• 1 inside flap
• 1 waistband (see notes below on whether this should be one piece or two)
• belt loops or any other decorative elements desired

Sewing Instructions:
Note: I actually sewed the first pair in a different order than these steps, but here is how I think it SHOULD be done. I will adjust again once I prove out that this is right or not.

1. On the LEFT side of the front opening, stitch the zipper panel to the Front piece, right sides together.
2. Press so the zipper panel is on the inside of the front piece, and top stitch in place along the raw edge.  You can either serge the raw edge, or fold it under itself, to prevent fraying.
   
3. Sew the left side of the zipper aligned with the left edge of the shorts opening.






4. Sew the Right side of the zipper to the RIGHT side of the shorts opening.  Make sure it stays behind the outside fabric. Note the picture - this is my mistake version where the inside flap piece is too short. However, this will be the final placement, eventually.
5. 
   
   
6. Sew front piece to back piece at the leg seam, for both sides. Make sure they are mirrors of each other!
7. "Finish" the seams - either French seam or Flat-felled.
8. Sew the U-shaped crotch seam, from the bottom of the zipper in front, to the top of the waist in back.
9. Finish this seam as well, probably Flat-felled, but French seam might work too. Have not tried this yet, so it might take some thinking to make it happen.
10. Sew side seams. Finish seams.
11. Try on, and mark any pleats necessary to fit around the waist. 
12. Sew on the waistband on one side only:
    
13. Taking the Inside Flap piece, press the fold so it is crisp, and then fold inside out so the right sides are together. Stitch along the top edge only, then turn right side out.
14. Finish the "raw" edge by serging or creating a fabric tube. (Note if you make a tube, make sure you cut this piece with enough seam allowance!)
15. Line up the top of the Inside flap piece to the top of the waistband, and sew this to the zipper on the inside: In this test piece, my waistband was one piece, folded in half. I later realized that on my shorts, I think the waistband is two pieces that are top-stitched to each other along the top edge, which would make it easier to work it around this flap piece, but also MUCH harder to keep the top-stitching perfectly even all the way around. I may try it just to see.
    
16. Sew down waistband.
17. Mark and sew the button hole on the right side of the opening.
18. Sew the button to the left side of the opening.
19. Press all the pocket edges under, and top-stitch the opening edge to finish it. Top-stitch the pockets to the shorts in desired locations.
20. Cuff or finish the leg hems however desired for this style.

Other ideas for decorative elements:
- top-stitch a design on the pockets before attaching them
- add a button-closure over the pocket openings
- add a buttoned strap over the leg cuffs
- add belt loops